Buying a Used Car: The 30-Item Checklist

Before you visit#

1. Pull the vehicle history report#

Carfax, AutoCheck, or VIN check at the NHTSA database. Look for:

• Title brand (salvage, flood, rebuilt).
• Accident history.
• Service records.
• Odometer rollback flags.

2. Research common problems#

For the year/make/model, look up known issues. Toyota 2AZ-FE head bolt? Subaru oil consumption? Hyundai Theta II engine? Knowing the platform's weak points lets you focus inspection.

3. Set a budget for the PPI#

Plan to spend $80–$150 at an independent shop for the pre- purchase inspection (PPI). This is in addition to the asking price.

On-site inspection — 30 items#

Exterior (5 items)#

1. Body panel gaps: uneven gaps suggest collision repair.
2. Paint condition: mismatches in color or texture = panel replacement.
3. Wheel wells: rust holes, frame rust, prior collision.
4. Tires: wear pattern (alignment), tread depth, age (sidewall date code).
5. Glass: cracks, chips, aftermarket replacement (mismatched logos).

Interior (5 items)#

1. Seats: wear pattern matches mileage? 50,000 mile car with heavily worn seat = odometer rollback flag.
2. Carpets: wet padding = water leak (sunroof, heater core).
3. Dashboard: warning lights at start; OBD-II port functional.
4. Smell: musty = water damage; sweet = coolant leak; oil = leak.
5. Pedals: wear pattern matches mileage.

Engine (8 items)#

1. Cold start: start cold (request first start of the day). Listen for ticking, knocking, smoke.
2. Oil dipstick: color, level, smell. Black sludge = neglect. Milkshake = head gasket. Fuel smell = serious issue.
3. Coolant overflow: level, color, no oil residue. Pink/orange = ATF cross-contamination.
4. Brake fluid: clear amber = healthy; dark = neglected.
5. Power steering fluid: clear red or amber = healthy.
6. Air filter: dirty = neglect; oil residue = K&N + over-oil.
7. Battery: date code on top, age, terminals corroded.
8. Belt and hoses: cracks, glazing, soft spots.

Drivetrain (5 items)#

1. Transmission engagement: shift through gears slowly with foot on brake. Should engage cleanly, no harsh lurches.
2. Test drive shifts: acceleration through all gears. Should be smooth.
3. Trans fluid (if dipstick equipped): color, level, smell. Burnt smell = nearing rebuild.
4. CV axle boots: torn boots = leaking joints; possible clicking on turns.
5. Driveshaft/U-joints (RWD): play in joints; rust at U-joint caps.

Suspension and brakes (4 items)#

1. Bounce test: push down on corners; should rebound once and settle. Multiple bounces = worn shocks.
2. Brakes during test drive: pulsing pedal = warped rotors; pulling = stuck caliper.
3. Steering response: centered, returns to center, no excessive play.
4. Tire wear pattern: even = alignment OK; uneven = needs alignment plus possible suspension wear.

History and paperwork (3 items)#

1. Service records: receipts and stamps. Major services (timing belt, transmission, brakes) at reasonable intervals.
2. Title in seller's name: matches ID. Lien-free or lien payoff plan documented.
3. Pre-purchase inspection (PPI): request shop inspection. Seller refuses = walk away.

After the on-site check#

Get a PPI#

Take the vehicle to an independent shop you trust (not one recommended by the seller). $80–$150 for a full inspection. They catch frame damage, hidden leaks, and code history you can't see.

Use the PPI report to negotiate#

If the PPI reveals $1,500 of needed repairs, negotiate that off the asking price. Many sellers accept reasonable adjustments.

Run the OBD-II scan#

A scanner with code history shows codes that have appeared in the past, even if currently cleared. Hidden P0420 or P0301 history points at coming repairs.

Red flags — walk away#

• Title brand (salvage, flood, rebuilt) you didn't expect.
• Visible engine, transmission, or major component leaks.
• Cold start smoke (white/blue) that doesn't clear.
• Check engine light on at startup.
• Codes can't be cleared (active fault).
• Seller refuses PPI.
• Seller pushes a fast decision ("I have another buyer in 30 minutes").
• Pricing too far below market with vague explanation.
• VIN on dashboard doesn't match VIN on door jamb (theft).

Reasonable concerns vs deal-breakers#

What to budget post-purchase#

Plan to spend the first month addressing deferred maintenance:

• Oil change with manufacturer-spec full synthetic.
• Trans fluid service (if past due).
• Coolant flush (if past due).
• Brake pads if low.
• Cabin air filter.
• Wiper blades.

Typical first-month spend on a $10,000–$15,000 used car: $400–$800.

Related guides#

FAQ#